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The Göksu River, a hilltop castle and the sanctuary of Saint Thecla
West of Erdemli lies Silifke, one of Mersin province's most important historical and natural centres. The Göksu flows through the town, a castle rises above its skyline, and religious and archaeological sites trace a history from Hellenistic and Roman times through the Byzantine and Ottoman periods.
The river gives Silifke its landscape; the stone bridge connects its banks; Aya Tekla anchors its early Christian heritage; and the Göksu Delta carries the river south to the Mediterranean.
Silifke deserves a stop in its own right before continuing towards Aydıncık and Anamur.
Silifke lies west of Mersin city, beyond Erdemli, on the route to the province's western coast. The Göksu Nehri passes through its centre before turning south towards the sea.
The main places to explore are the town centre, both riverbanks, Silifke Castle, Aya Tekla beyond the centre on the Taşucu side, and the delta to the south.
Narlıkuyu, Taşucu, Cennet and Cehennem have a separate guide, allowing the town and surrounding coast sufficient space of their own.
The ancient town was Seleucia ad Calycadnum; Calycadnus was the ancient name of the Göksu.
Founded in the Hellenistic period, it became an important centre under Roman and Byzantine rule and in subsequent centuries. Its advantages were enduring: a river providing water, a broad agricultural plain, routes linking the coast to the interior, and nearby Mediterranean ports.
Together, these sustained settlement and strategic importance over a long period.
The Göksu comes from the Taurus and inland Anatolia, then crosses Silifke before reaching the Mediterranean. Trees along the banks, bridges, surrounding neighbourhoods and everyday movement make it a defining part of the centre.
From the elevated areas around the castle, the river's course through the town and plain helps explain why Silifke developed here.
Taş Köprü, the Stone Bridge or Roman Bridge, crosses the Göksu in the centre. Its origins date to AD 77–78.
The structure has undergone repeated repairs and alterations. Important phases include substantial nineteenth-century work, later twentieth-century changes and a restoration completed in 2023.
What visitors see today therefore combines Roman origins with many subsequent centuries of maintenance and rebuilding.
Silifke Kalesi occupies a hill approximately 185 metres above sea level, overlooking the centre.
Its foundations are attributed to the Hellenistic or early Roman period, while later repairs and changes give the surviving structure a medieval appearance.
The castle is broadly oval and surrounded by a dry moat. Its remains include water cisterns, storage rooms, buildings and vaulted galleries.
How many towers survive?
Writing in the seventeenth century, Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi described a castle with 23 towers, a mosque and dozens of houses. Official descriptions identify approximately 10 surviving towers today.
The wider setting is equally compelling: the winding Göksu, the town, agricultural plain and surrounding uplands spread out below.
Access note: Excavation and restoration can affect entry to the castle itself. Confirm the current arrangements before planning to walk inside; use only permitted approaches and viewing areas.
Aya Tekla, also called Meryemlik, lies a few kilometres beyond central Silifke, reached from the Taşucu road. The traditional approach is described as turning off around its fourth kilometre.
Christian tradition associates the site with Saint Thecla, who was influenced by the teachings of Saint Paul and left Konya before coming to the Silifke area. According to that tradition, she lived in a cave here and spread her faith locally.
The story made the site an important pilgrimage centre in the eastern Mediterranean.
The underground church
The principal surviving feature is Aya Tekla Yeraltı Kilisesi, the underground church. The cave associated with the saint became a place of worship and was converted into a church in the fourth century AD.
As Christianity spread, the sanctuary expanded. Its surviving remains include the cave church, churches above it, cisterns, a bath, tombs and sections of fortification walls.
Aya Tekla is therefore a religious complex developed over several centuries, with much more to its history than one isolated cave.
South of town, the river reaches the sea through Göksu Deltası. Wetlands, lakes and other bodies of water support abundant birdlife, while the coast provides nesting habitat for sea turtles.
Official environmental information identifies approximately 10.5 kilometres of nesting beach within the protected area.
The delta attracts birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts, but it is a sensitive ecological landscape. Follow protection rules and use only areas open to visitors.
Silifke Atatürk Evi ve Etnografya Müzesi occupies a historic house built in 1914. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed here during his first visit to Silifke in January 1925.
The museum presents documents and photographs relating to his visits, the room and furnishings associated with his stay, material concerning agricultural and cooperative initiatives, and local ethnographic objects.
Smaller than the castle or Aya Tekla complex, it offers a different perspective on Silifke's twentieth-century history.
The Göksu plain sustains a productive agricultural landscape. Products closely associated with the town include strawberries, locally celebrated Silifke yoghurt, fruit, vegetables and other Mediterranean crops.
Beyond the centre, streets soon give way to fields, orchards and farm buildings. The river is as fundamental to the area's economy and daily life as it is to the scenery.
Morning
Begin with the castle hill and the permitted viewing areas. If entry is available, explore the castle; otherwise enjoy the outlook from accessible surroundings.
Mid-morning
Return to the centre, walk beside the Göksu, see the Stone Bridge and explore the town.
Afternoon
Continue to Aya Tekla to see the underground church and the surviving religious complex.
Late afternoon
Nature enthusiasts can visit accessible parts of the Göksu Delta. Alternatively, add Atatürk House in the centre if modern history is your priority and opening hours allow.
- Castle hill: The ascent and exposed areas are more comfortable in the morning, especially in summer. Check entry arrangements first.
- Footwear: Wear suitable walking shoes around the castle and at Aya Tekla.
- Delta: Respect protected habitats and wildlife guidance.
- Photography: Elevated, permitted viewpoints around the castle give the broadest views of the river and town.
- Getting around: Parts of the centre are straightforward to explore on foot; Aya Tekla and the delta require journeys beyond it.
Silifke's defining features are easy to trace on a map: the Göksu crosses its heart, the Roman bridge links the banks, the castle overlooks them, and Aya Tekla preserves an important chapter of early Christian history. The delta completes the river's journey at the Mediterranean.
In a day, these landscapes can take you from a hilltop outlook to a Roman crossing, an underground church and a remarkable coastal wetland, allowing for the access arrangements at each site.
The next guide turns towards Narlıkuyu and Taşucu, with Cennet and Cehennem, Astım Cave, rocky shores, harbours and the coves of western Mersin.
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