In Van, breakfast may become the day’s most important appointment: small dishes invite comparison, bread arrives at the table, and tea accompanies a long conversation. Yet the pleasure comes from more than the number of plates. It lies in knowing what deserves a bite of its own, what suits...
A white Van cat with one blue eye and one amber eye, in a photograph from the provincial culture and tourism directorate’s official archive.
Van combines the life of a contemporary city with an identity shaped by its lake, food and education. That character comes through in its markets and...